Any know good website on setting up gtr?

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Anyone know of a good website that describes how to set up a guitar? ???

Here’s a very simplistic guide Tom, (and even worse, it’s British :( )

As I said, it really is very simplistic, but, it does have a link to the Fender set-up page.

here

Ali

Depends what type of guitar…
Different bridges, truss rods etc. may be slightly different

Here are a couple of good ones for floating bridges

http://www.ibanez.com/support/howtos.asp
http://www.jemsite.com/tech/

If you’re not sure what you’re doing, your’e probably better off taking the guitar to a proper guitar tech.
Isn’t all that expensive and should last 1-2 years.

Try doing it yourself and you could be continually tweaking it yourself for the next 1-2 years trying to get it right :)

Rich

Aimed mainly at acoustics but loads of general wisdom : http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html

Here is a good rule of thumb for you Tom.
Press the 12 fret on your low e string and eyeball the 5-7th fret for distance between the fret wires and the string. There should be a little bow, you can loosen the neck bolt and apply a little pressure to bow the neck. Then pressure it strait, to snug it back as you like it, then re tighten. (You might have to use hands and feet) Also use the saddle screws to bring your overall action into place, i eyeball the string hight where I pick, you don’t want anything uneven, that could cause you to trip and be hesitant. This works for me every time. Don’t forget intonation, it’s the key to sweetness.
Fender has specks for setting up strats at fender.com but one has to like what your playing on, and the first thing I do is get comfortable with it. And personally I’ve never read their specks, I figure it was created by a guy that is probably 6’5 and weighs 260lbs. You can get it as strait and close as you like as long as there is no buzzing, turning your intanation will correct any cords being out of tune when the rest of the guitar seems in tune.

And then of course set up your #2 or thrid guitar with a little higher action for playing slide. You can play slide on low action, expecially with an amp. But it’s defenatly a little easier with slightly higher action, expecially when your playing songs at light low volumes.

Hi TomS:
CBS Fender used to have a great Page for that … It was well written, and quite understandable… A well done page… I had the link to… But it’s lost somewhere… Too many C Drive rebuilds, ago…

I think, if you Google, “Guitar TechTalk”, or something, you’ll find it…

Bill…

Thanks fellows! Rich, the way I figure it if I mess it up entirely I can still take it to a good tech, no harm done. Always curious about these things… :)

If you tighten up the strings till you can make a straight arrow find it’s mark, you got the the strings just tight enough… :p :laugh:

TomS, Here is the order for setting up a guitar properly. If you want me to teach you the exact things to do, let me know. I’d be happy to help.

1. Adjust the truss rod so that there is about the distance of 2 business card thickness clearance between the 8th fret wire and the string when you depress the string on the first and last fret at the same time.

2. Set each saddle height so that the strings do not buzz against the frets when playing. The strings should follow the arch of the fingerboard from low E to high E. The Low E string should be slightly higher than the high E when properly set up.

3. Cut the nut slots so that the distance between the first fret and the string is approximately 50% higher than the clearance of the string over the second fret with the string depressed on the first fret. The nut slot should always be cut slightly angled down toward the tuners.

4. Set the intonation of each string by adjusting the saddles. Play each sting open then fret the 12th fret. If the 12th fret is flat compared to the open string, shorten the string length by adjusting the saddle. If the 12th fret is sharp compared to the open string, then lengthen the string accordingly.

It is important that you do the above in the order stated otherwise the string will not play in tune or may have problems with fretting out… etc.

If you need more in depth discussion about this, let me know.

Take care,

Mike

Quote (DrGuitar @ May 04 2005,12:36)
1. Adjust the truss rod so that there is about the distance of 2 business card thickness clearance between the 8th fret wire and the string when you depress the string on the first and last fret at the same time.

I've found that putting a capo at the first fret makes this step a little easier for those of us with only two hands; it leaves one hand free to push the string down at the last fret, while the other hand holds the business card (or whatever you use) to measure the gap.
:;):

Of course you are right John. I have been doing this so long that I know what that distance should look like. I forget that not everyone has eyes finetuned for slight measurements.

Sorry and thanks again,

Mike

Quote (TomS @ May 04 2005,11:14)
Thanks fellows! Rich, the way I figure it if I mess it up entirely I can still take it to a good tech, no harm done. Always curious about these things… :)

Right!

Someting that always bothered me about adjusting the neck.
If you haven’t had any experiance trying to do that, (be careful) something you might notice is that it doesn’t actually adjust, as if the rod has a bow in it and if turned it will force a new shape in the neck. I have found that they will tighten and loosen and continuing to tighten might cause the trust rod to brake. If you turn counter clock wise, you will see that it only loosens, nothing turns. If you turn it clockwise the slack is taken up.
I perfer to loosen it and physically straiten the neck, then simply tighten to keep that position.
My lessons learned are from a time when I had a guitar that was so bad that you couldn’t play it, you could only work on it! And eventually I made it playable.

If the rod actually has a bow in it, then you would have to believe that the wood in the neck couldn’t take to many adjustments.

Quote (woxnerw @ May 04 2005,11:21)
If you tighten up the strings till you can make a straight arrow find it’s mark, you got the the strings just tight enough… :p :laugh:

lol Or untill the guitar actually sounds like a harpsichord :D
:angry: DO NOT forget to adjust the quills and plectrums!
Quote (DrGuitar @ May 04 2005,13:55)
Sorry and thanks again,

Sorry for what? You posted a great guide... Thank *you*

:cool:

Quote (John @ May 04 2005,15:14)
Quote (DrGuitar @ May 04 2005,13:55)
Sorry and thanks again,

Sorry for what? You posted a great guide… Thank you

:cool:

Ya I can’t see anything that he shoud be sorry for but you are right john i forgot to mention to hold the string at the first fret too!
Thanks for adding that, I hope the GtDr comes back. I would like to see what he says about trussrods :D

You don’t need a capo - use your left hand to press down at the first fret.
Use your right hand little finger to press down at the 15’th fret.
With your right hand thumb you check the clearance between the string and the fret at fret 7 or 8.
I’ve found that if you have any clearance at all, you’re good to go but it depends on YOUR guitar. Some necks are strange…
How much clearance you want is down to personal taste as long as you don’t get annoying fret buzzes on any string anywhere on the neck.

When adjusting the truss rod, turn it in small increments (1/8’th turn at a time) and leave the guitar alone for a while (15-30 minutes ?) to let the wood settle, then check what actually happened. A little goes a long way if all is well with your guitar.

Oh well, just my experiences…

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If you need more in depth discussion about this, let me know.

Take care,

Mike


Mike, I’ll take you up on that offer.

If you ever have the spare time, it’d be nice to see a good write-up on the subject.

I’ve been doing it myself for a wee while, even refretted a few times, but I’m still not too old to learn and benefit from other people’s knowledge and expertise. :)

Ali

what are you trying to set exactly? String action? Intonation? To set intonation, pro luthiers use a strobe tuner, but I do mine with a pedal stompbox (Boss TU2), which actually has a strobe setting, not as accurate as the fancy strobes a real luthier might have, but it gets the job done… I wouldn’t try to file the nut slots or anything like that, you need a special file and some experience to do it right (leave that to a pro). I’m with teryeah on the truss rod adjustments, just a little at a time. I’d wait 24 hours between adjustments, it can take a very long time for the neck to settle after an adjustment.

oh yeah! www.fenderforum.com is an excellent web resource for info on guitars as well as amps (not just Fender either…).