Watts and ohms

You have the one that has 130W+50W amplifiers right? That is the P1 (in JBL terminology).
The G2 is the (hyped) 300W+100W variety.
There are no other 15" types than these two, according to the jbl-pro site.
The speaker has to have a type plate, that will tell you the rated power consumption (it will say something like 230V - 50Hz - xxxW; where xxx is the number you’re looking for).
If the jbl information is correct, it should be 175W.
The difference between 140w and 175W is minimal. Translated to sound pressure level the difference is much less than 3dB.

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For anyone who knows… there is always one stage amp that causes AC Polarity HUM in the Audio system… Who knows why that is…

I think I know why that is…
In fact there are usually at least two amps causing the problem (a ground loop) together.
IT looks like there is only one because the problem goes away if you lift the signal ground of one of them.
And you blame the stage amp (and not the PA) because that is the first one you try anyway.
Am I right…?
Quote (hansje @ April 21 2006,06:11)
(it will say something like 230V - 50Hz - xxxW; where xxx is the number you're looking for).
If the jbl information is correct, it should be 175W.

it's 140 W

That sucks, doesn’t it.
You were promised 400W, you get only 140. :(
Still, I think they should be good for what you want (by the time you’ve outgrown these, you can probably afford anything you like!).
Found your EON 15PAK at last:

http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf…ngs.pdf

The “PAK” is version with a special input module, featuring a 4 band eq, that actually looks better than the original :) .
The PAK has been out of production since april 8. 2000, so your set would be at least 6 years old.

Hi hansje:
If you didn’t do the “Ground lift” process the 60 hz. just seems to cause your stage mix grief. It’s the harminic content that suffers in the mix you create. 60 - 120 - 240 - 480 hz. till it dissapears…

IT always seemed to be my Acoustic 370 amp. I used an active Direct Box to the Amp input. The signal split was there to the mixer. To find IT was just pulled the XLR plug from the mixer. and ALL was fine… I always carried a ground lift AC adaptor for that issue… I knew I was always the power “Floater” on the stage. The hair on my forearms would always stand on-end if I came close to anyone else on the stage that I could get a shot of voltage, from…

I used to touch them, to wake them up. I hated to see anyone sleeping , on the stage… :O :p

Bill…

Right you are.
When working outside we’d knock a copper rod in the soil and connect the youngest apprentice electrician to it with a long cable.
If he was still alive at the end of the day, we knew we did a Good Job :;):

Quote (hansje @ April 21 2006,08:29)
The "PAK" is version with a special input module, featuring a 4 band eq, that actually looks better than the original :) .
The PAK has been out of production since april 8. 2000, so your set would be at least 6 years old.

Thanks very much for the info! Well, I'm going back to the seller (he told me it was a P15 G1 and ....1,5 year old ???
doesn't look like that...). I hope I'm still alive after that :p
Maybe he gives the money back and than it'll be the last time I buy somthing second hand I think... Hope it ends allright and than I think I'm gonna concentrate on LEM, not that expensive, maybe good enough. :)

Hm.
Before you go violent on the seller, please consider the possibility that the set has been in the shop for a couple of years before your seller bought them…
Or on the other hand, get real nasty, demand a partial refund, but keep the speakers.
They’re cool gear. Really.
sterkte ermee…

Did the seller actually say they were G2’s, or had the power of G2’s? If not, the following two rules apply:

Caveat emptor.
Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me!

I’ve made a few misguided purchases, but so far, each time I was the one who made the mistake. This is not true for lying, of course. But hansje is right: sometimes gear sits in the store for a long time.

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sometimes gear sits in the store for a long time


if the gear contains electrolityc capacitors (and it almost always does) , these components can easily dry if they are not used for a long time :angry:

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if the gear contains electrolityc capacitors (and it almost always does) , these components can easily dry if they are not used for a long time

This totally new to me.
How would that happen?

As clevermind says, electrolytic paste capacitors dry out, especially if not used. I never trust the small surface mount aluminum ones that are more than about 5 years old. The symptoms are change in value or at high voltages they just go bang (they become a dead short).Tantalums use a dry oxide electrolyte and are OK because there is nothing to dry out.

I think you are being overconservative. While electrolytic capacitors will eventually fail, if they failed in 5 years there would be huge problems worldwide with all electronic gear since virtually every piece of equipment contains these components. I would guess that a few decades would be a more realistic figure unless the parts are inferior to begin with. I have used amplifiers with the original capacitors which are 30-40 years old and still fully functional.

Jim

no problem if they are used from time to time

but even in this case, overheating can dry the electrolyt

they can still be functionnal, but their original specs may drop (capacity, leak current)

tantal capacitors are also of interest because they are not polarized, but their capacacity is lower.

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I think you are being overconservative. While electrolytic capacitors will eventually fail, if they failed in 5 years there would be huge problems worldwide with all electronic gear since virtually every piece of equipment contains these components. I would guess that a few decades would be a more realistic figure unless the parts are inferior to begin with. I have used amplifiers with the original capacitors which are 30-40 years old and still fully functional.


You’re correct Jimbob. I’ve handled gear from the 50’s and the C’s are still OK. But they don’t make them like they did.

Japanese video gear since the late 80’s early 90’s is notorious. Those surface mount aluminum caps they use are terrible. The trend is toward cheap components not good components.

And the problem is becoming worse. But most electronics these days is throw away, it’s usually redundant in 5 years anyway, so go figure.