Suggestions?
When I do a mixdown I like to listen to it in different systems. I especially like to listen in my car. I have a 2001 Honda Civic with the Honda CD player.
My problem is that CD-Rs are very slow to start playing. They will usually start on the first track only. Sometimes they won’t play at all. Commercial CDs play fine.
An internet search reports this as a common problem with car CD players.
I have tried burning at slow speeds, but it’s no better. I have tried burning on my “Record Now” software, “Music Match” software and “Windows Media Center” software. None better than others.
ANY IDEAS?
?
I had a problem with my stock Nissan CD player not playing burnt CD’s, but playing commercial CDs ok.
I used to skip and jump a lot no matter what media I tried (about 6 different brands) or what speed I burnt at.
I bought a Pioneer CD player and it plays cd’s fine.
Also has the added benefit of being able to play mp3s so I can make cd’s containing 1 ablums or so now and makes life a lot easier all round.
Rich
I’ve had this problem for years. It’s not the sftware, it’s the discs. By experimenting and trying different brands, I have found some brands work in some players, some brands work in others. Cost has not seemed to be the factor, though the cheapest ones, generally did not work well.
I’ve settled in on Fuji’s (and they have two different kinds), but I can’t guarantee they’ll work on your systems. Go out and buy a few brands and try them all. You’ll find one that works. When you find that one that works, go out and buy a boatload of them, 'cause companies tend to discontinue and change their specs.
yup, i’ll second valrecorder’s post. don’t buy the cheapies if you want the cd-r’s to play in your car. i’ve found that sony and fuji cd-r’s play fine in my car, nothing else will. maybe try a sample of a few different brands and see if any work. try a slower write speed (some people find that slower write speeds work better, i dunno).
I have used the Sony MUSIC cd’s and they work for all the people who complained about the cheapies I used before.
I must be lucky because all of my plyers play all cd’s.
If you’re burning your own cd’s, make sure you use the 80 minute CD-R variety designed for music and make sure the box or label says “compact disc digital audio recordable”. Lots of folks get confused and try to burn tunes onto regular CD-R media used for data and stuff. Makes a big difference. 
There is nothing special about “audio” blank cd’s except for 2 things:
1. They have a flag on the disc to indicate that it is an audio blank rather than a data blank. This is because some stand alone CD recorders (the type used in a hi-fi system, not a PC) will only work with “audio discs”.
2. The “audio” discs are more expensive because the manufacturers have to pay royalties to the music industry from the sales of these discs. This the reason the standalone hi-fi type players will only work with the “audio” discs to prevent normal data discs beings used.
There is no difference in the make-up of the 2 types of disc.
There will be differneces in brands of course.
But there is no reason to use blanks labelledas “audio” unless your cd-recorer requires them.
PC burners don’t
More info can be found here
Rich
The most reliable and playable CDR in my experience is Taiyo Yuden Silver/Blue discs. These are the original blue dye media and I use them for all my masters. They are also very reasonable in price. Here’s one place to get them:
Taiyo Yuden CDs
| Quote (RichLum @ Oct. 18 2005,00:07) |
| There is nothing special about "audio" blank cd's except for 2 things: 1. They have a flag on the disc to indicate that it is an audio blank rather than a data blank. This is because some stand alone CD recorders (the type used in a hi-fi system, not a PC) will only work with "audio discs". 2. The "audio" discs are more expensive because the manufacturers have to pay royalties to the music industry from the sales of these discs. This the reason the standalone hi-fi type players will only work with the "audio" discs to prevent normal data discs beings used. There is no difference in the make-up of the 2 types of disc. There will be differneces in brands of course. But there is no reason to use blanks labelledas "audio" unless your cd-recorer requires them. PC burners don't More info can be found here Rich |
I hear what you say, Rich, but music cd's render better results consistently. It may have something to do with the cd players themselves. Standard CD-R disks typically used for burning data do not indicate "digital audio" and there must be a reason for that.
It may be the quality/brand of media, but the fact that it is labelled “audio” will make no difference to the player. This is only used by the recording hardware.
You may very well get “audio” labelled discs of another brand that your car cd player doesn’t like.
You may also get normal data discs from another brand that work fine in your player or possibly even the data discs from the same company if they are equal quality/composition…
What makes a disc playable in a normal cd player is the way the recording hardware/software encodes the data onto the blank (whether it encodes it as a data disk or cd-audio).
You can use the “audio” labelled discs for data discs if you want (will just be more expensive than the equivalent “data” disc from the same brand due tot eh toyalties being paid).
Rich
I’ve had lots of problems with some brands of CD-Rs. I second 8th note - use Taiyo Yuden CD-Rs, you won’t be disappointed.
I think this has been eluded to, if not mentioned. Some players will not play burned CDs, period. Commercial CDs have a bit or few that are set that are not set on burned CDs. This is similar to the “audio bit”. I have a Sony DVD/CD player that will not play CD-R by design. It’s documented that it will not play them. I also have a Sony portable CD player that will not play them for the same reason - paranoia by the manufacturers over lawsuits dealing with copied CDs. Newer players don’t do this stupid stuff. It’s not limited to Sony. Since the car is from 2001 the player may very well be from that time period that “won’t play CD-R”.
Another thought is to clean the lens. I have an old CD deck (not for a car) that would play only commercial CDs. When I took the top off and cleaned the lens with alcohol, all of a sudden it would play even the cheap CD-Rs. Just a thought.
It’s obvious that this place is infested with old morons who still use archaeic technology like cd’s. Wake up and smell the coffee. Get an iPod and an FM converter/adapter holster for your car. Wait…the cars you fools drive probably haven’t advanced enough to have cigarette lighters for the power adapter. Never mind.
| Quote (Dewey Oxberger @ Oct. 19 2005,04:53) |
| It's obvious that this place is infested with old morons who still use archaeic technology like cd's. Wake up and smell the coffee. Get an iPod and an FM converter/adapter holster for your car. Wait........the cars you fools drive probably haven't advanced enough to have cigarette lighters for the power adapter. Never mind.
|
Hey Dewey,
I can't figure out which is more pathetic! Your rantings, your attempts at humour, or your spelling..... (archeic
).I'm wondering what's missing in your life to make you such a pathetic specimen?
Maybe the use of the term "well endowed" in your other post is a bit of a clue. Feeling a bit under-equipped in that department maybe?
Don't worry boy, size isn't everything.
Bruffie.
I had a similar problem with my Ford Focus cd 6000. I fixed it simply cleanning the laser head.
Something I have found is that I get more reliable mixdowns to CD if I use a low burn rate - the best being 1x if you have the time.
In my experience, burning a CD at a slow speed (4x or 8x) does help it too work reliably in a wider range of players. I have a very old JVC player that I use for testing. It seems that if it works in there it works pretty much anywhere.
The slow speed thing is not great news I know, but this has worked for me. Give it a try.
Thanks all of you who took time to reply to my original question.
-John